Chattisgarh: Living On Hope
By Chandrika Rathore
By Chandrika Rathore
Ever
since I started work at Pratham, which was almost six months ago, I’ve been
particularly keen to visit its education programs in Chhattisgarh – the small
state in Central India that was born out of Madhya Pradesh. Its people, after
all, have long had to endure the struggle between the government and the Naxals
and I was eager to see how these programs would run amidst such menace.
Prior
to my visit, the only ideas I had about the socio political affairs of the
state were from what I had read and heard. Based on that limited information, I
had formed strong biases (best left undeclared) that came out in the endless
debates I had with friends and acquaintances.
Hence
I looked forward to a visit hoping to better understand the situation in the
state. In retrospect, I think I had been little naive to believe that this
short visit would all so simply wipe away my doubts and bring me back with a crystal
clear viewpoint.
What
I did come back with, however, was a rather pleasant perspective, even if not
with answers to all my questions; and the realization that this was enough for
the time being. It would be wrong, maybe even unfair to believe in the
possibility of understanding a situation of this nature in such little time,
with such little interaction with the people there. It would be an insult to the
atrocities the common man has faced in Chattisgarh and most of all, it was
impossible.
During
my four-day visit, I had several questions and fortunately, I had for company,
a colleague from Mumbai who was revisiting with me, Swamiji - the Unicef program
head and Papuji who tirelessly drove us around, through unfriendly terrains.
They were knowledgeable about the affairs of their state. I wanted to know
their views for they would also, in some way or the other, reflect the views of
people they knew: who did the people of Chhattisgarh sympathize with? But as is
the case with most things, nothing was black and white. Even so, while Swamiji
came forward in his support for the government, Papuji was quick to establish
that he disagreed.
Along the journey, which was always at an average of three to four hours, wherever we went, I noticed that Chhattisgarh had a large number of schools. On the first day while driving from the district headquarter of Jagdalpur to Bastar, we saw a huge campus coming up – it boasted the kind of infrastructure you get to see in big cities. It was an ‘education hub’ the government was setting up. That clubbed with the positive comments from my companions on the collector and other government officials was indicative of the government’s resolve to improve the quality of education in the state.
Our
first stop was at a school in Bastar district. Unlike schools I’ve visited in
other states, here, I found the children to be weary of strangers. They did not
welcome our presence and were hesitant in engaging with us. “Some of them have
been exposed to violence at this age;” explained Swamiji, on noticing the apparent
concern on my face. However, as soon as the teachers started conversing with
them, the gloom in the classroom turned into cheer.
The
two ashramshals (boarding school) that we visited next told the same story. The
blank expression on the children’s faces in the initial moments of our entry was
a norm I wasn’t accustomed to. We had spent a full day and I had noticed a
fairly large number of children whose first reaction was worrisome.
And
so, as the sun set on Baster that night I could feel the restlessness inside me
rising. I couldn’t help myself despite
the inkling that the rationale in my feelings was frail. However, this inkling reinstated
by my colleague compelled me to broaden my observation, lest I miss the bigger
picture.
The
next day in Dantewada – a troubled zone that lies quite close to Naxal
inhabited areas – I understood the challenges faced by teachers in
Chhattisgarh. Most of them have to travel very long distances to get to work
and often through deserted places, which are hotbeds for Naxal activities. The
Naxals often kidnap people who they suspect might be in touch with the army and
the police. Though in case of incorrect suspicions they let go of the person, needless
to say that the trauma stays. In such a
situation, the determination of the teachers is commendable.
Whichever
school I visited, I found the teachers to be particularly driven. The children
felt safe in their presence. I noticed more closely that day how beautifully
they succeeded in making the children comfortable despite our presence.
One
of the teachers explained how schools in the interiors of Chattisgarh are
neither visited often by outsiders nor have children coming from secure
backgrounds, hence the apprehension in interacting with strangers.
Although
nothing had changed, I retired that night much calmer, with a newfound respect
for the teachers and volunteers who work there. This admiration only increased
the next day, when Swamiji organized a visit to Reddy in Bijapur. He felt that
it was essential to see how the classes were being run in extremely sensitive
areas such as Bijapur.
After
crossing five CRPF checkpoints, we finally reached Reddy, where men in uniform
enquired about the purpose of our visit. On hearing Swamiji’s explanation, one
of them responded with a smile, “Acha lagta hai ki aap log yahan tak aate hain,
aapka kaam dekhne ke liye. Warna yahan toh koi nahi aata hai” Reddy was unlike
any village we’d been to before: a semi warzone, it had bunkers, checkpoints
and edgy villagers sitting along the road.
We
were all a little tense and I wondered about the teachers who took this journey
every single day and the children who grew up in this environment.
As we
entered the school which was all of two big rooms – the children stood up to
greet us, once again, with a serious face and a soft voice but that did not
make me anxious anymore.
Once the
teachers helped break the ice, we engaged them in few math problems and reading
exercises which they seemed to enjoy. When I asked the teachers how they
managed to run classes in such a tense environment, they explained that no one
has a problem with education programs. “padhai
ke kaam se kisiko koi problem nahi hai, bas aate jaate time thoda daar toh
lagta hi hai.”
We had
to leave Reddy soon as the road leading out would shut post six but not before
I’d taken a few pictures of the kids, who by now had opened up to us and turned
into a snap-happy lot.
This
was the end of day three and our visits of the schools. On our way back Swamiji
narrated a heart wrenching story about how he lost a loved one to the wrath of
Chattisgarh, with a poise that made me feel weak; and as though he was
continuing the same story he went on to ask us what we thought of the schools
and classes we’d visited in the past three days. It took me a while before I
could answer.
It was in this moment that I realized what I found great about the
people in Chhattisgarh; it was the importance they gave to education, despite
the trouble they are engulfed by. The calm and hope that echoed in their voices
was a validation of their determination.
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